The IWCRP recently decided to document the hitherto undocumented WC situation in Cartago, Costa Rica. We sent out this invitation to our associated members:
Estimados feligreses. Os invitamos a celebrar el 9 de agosto conmigo, conmemorando el día de nuestra queridísima Puta Gorda de Los Angeles.
La leyenda dice que la Puta Gorda, también conocida como la negrota, estaba en un chinchorro en Cartago la noche del 9 de agosto hace suficientes años como para que no se pueda comprobar nada, y se tomó un misíl de ron.
Se fue al baño, y cuando volvió, la botella estaba ahi... llena otra vez! Le pareció muy extraño, pero se la tomó como si fuera agua y después salió a gritarle a un señor que le debía dinero por un trabajo que ella le había hecho.
Milagrosamente, cuando volvió a la barra, ahí estaba la botella que había dejado en una mesa. Y lo más increíble de todo es que estaba llena otra vez! Se la tomó toda, y de repente ya no estaba de goma.
La negrota contó la historia a un borracho que por ahí andaba, y a él le pareció un milagro lo que había pasado.
De esta historia podemos deducir lógicamente que hay que ir de ronería; caminar por toda la bella ciudad de Cartago cada 9 de agosto, visitando la mayor cantidad posible de chinchorros. Se puede pedirles el favor a los bartenders de llenar la copa con una bebida, y hay muchos testimonios afirmando que conceden el favor, sobre todo si entras de rodillas. Además, los 9 de agosto el guaro tiene el poder de curar cualquier malestar, por lo que hay que aprovechar.
Es un acto de guarofeo.
Estimados feligreses. Os invitamos a celebrar el 9 de agosto conmigo, conmemorando el día de nuestra queridísima Puta Gorda de Los Angeles.
La leyenda dice que la Puta Gorda, también conocida como la negrota, estaba en un chinchorro en Cartago la noche del 9 de agosto hace suficientes años como para que no se pueda comprobar nada, y se tomó un misíl de ron.
Se fue al baño, y cuando volvió, la botella estaba ahi... llena otra vez! Le pareció muy extraño, pero se la tomó como si fuera agua y después salió a gritarle a un señor que le debía dinero por un trabajo que ella le había hecho.
Milagrosamente, cuando volvió a la barra, ahí estaba la botella que había dejado en una mesa. Y lo más increíble de todo es que estaba llena otra vez! Se la tomó toda, y de repente ya no estaba de goma.
La negrota contó la historia a un borracho que por ahí andaba, y a él le pareció un milagro lo que había pasado.
De esta historia podemos deducir lógicamente que hay que ir de ronería; caminar por toda la bella ciudad de Cartago cada 9 de agosto, visitando la mayor cantidad posible de chinchorros. Se puede pedirles el favor a los bartenders de llenar la copa con una bebida, y hay muchos testimonios afirmando que conceden el favor, sobre todo si entras de rodillas. Además, los 9 de agosto el guaro tiene el poder de curar cualquier malestar, por lo que hay que aprovechar.
Es un acto de guarofeo.
For those unaquainted with the spanish language, Costa Rica and catholisism, la Ronería is an event resembling la Romería, which takes place every year on august 2, in honor of la Virgen de Los Angeles. Hundreds of thousands of people walk to Cartago to ask her favors or thank her for already committed miracles. La Ronería is a similar concept, concentrating on walking from bar to bar, asking the bartenders for beers
1. Bar Nueva Lira, San José
The first stop on the tour was Bar Nueva Lira, by the San José-Cartago bus stop in downtown San José. Despite being nueva, the place appears to be rather old. What we liked most about this place was that the tables had little doorbells we could ring in order to get more beer. Unfortunately, we do not have pictures from the WC, but the ladies' room can be spotted in the back on the second picture.
Bar and bar-lady.
For some of the participants, this was the highlight of the Ronería, the nicest bar of all. Undisputably a genuine chinchorro, with ridiculously low prices, completely random decoration, the urinal without a door in a corner, and, most notably, a sign saying that the presence of women is prohibited, just to be 100% sure. El Gato Negro can be found inside el Mercado Central in Cartago, and closes at 8 p.m.
On our way to La Bicicleta, we found Las Brisas just across the street, and therefore decided to investigate. A bit slow, perhaps, but by no means a bad place. The entertainment consisted of DVDs of spanish and latin american singers from the 70s; lots of glamour and heartache.
2. Bar & Licorera El Jardín, Cartago
Our second stop, El Jardín, is a classic chinchorro. The cheapest alcohol available in this universe, combined with a relaxed and unambitious atmosphere. We made a friend here, Edgar, who is approaching his 80th birthday. He did not recommend going to our next scheduled stop, Bar el Veinte next door. Lots of bad people there, apparently. So we skipped it and went straight to el Gato Negro instead.
3. Bar El Gato Negro, Cartago
For some of the participants, this was the highlight of the Ronería, the nicest bar of all. Undisputably a genuine chinchorro, with ridiculously low prices, completely random decoration, the urinal without a door in a corner, and, most notably, a sign saying that the presence of women is prohibited, just to be 100% sure. El Gato Negro can be found inside el Mercado Central in Cartago, and closes at 8 p.m.
4. Bar Las Brisas, Cartago
On our way to La Bicicleta, we found Las Brisas just across the street, and therefore decided to investigate. A bit slow, perhaps, but by no means a bad place. The entertainment consisted of DVDs of spanish and latin american singers from the 70s; lots of glamour and heartache.
5. Bar La Bicicleta, Cartago
This bar is a landmark in Cartago, which was confirmed when we asked for the address. The owner looked a bit confused, and said "well, la bicicleta!" The bar is used to locate other places, not the other way around. Still, we think it's about 3-400 m east and 100 m north from the mercado central. According to our friendly bartender, the place could easily be over 100 years old, since a neighbour who also reached that age remembers going there with his father as a child.
A guest and our friendly bartender
Another bartender, one who loves to be photographed
Another famous place in Cartago, this one, and very popular. Perhaps a little too fancy for us, especially compared to the other places we had visited so far. Still, highly recommended for a normal night out.
Another bartender, one who loves to be photographed
6. Aquel lugar #2, Cartago
Another famous place in Cartago, this one, and very popular. Perhaps a little too fancy for us, especially compared to the other places we had visited so far. Still, highly recommended for a normal night out.
Official IWCRP models Pablo and Victor help make this an outstanding picture. The two smiling persons in the back are in no way affiliated with us, and were later given a severe beating for smiling sheepishly and without reason.
7. Bar el Cartaginés, Cartago
Optimism is one of the main characteristics of CSC fans
This is where the high hopes end up every season
8. La K-Baña, Cartago
El Cartaginés fills up for 15 minutes every two weeks, on sundays at 11.45, during half time in Club Sport Cartaginés' home games. CSC has not won the championship since 1940, but that will change this season, for sure. Status so far is 2 points in three games. The bar has a very friendly cat and good bocas, both of which can be enjoyed in peace when no game is on.
Optimism is one of the main characteristics of CSC fans
This is where the high hopes end up every season
8. La K-Baña, Cartago
Since both Lalo's and Titos's bars were closed, we ended up here at la Cabaña, which is probably spelled "K-baña", since that's how you spell things nowadays if you want to show that you're hip. Personally, I'd rather K-strarme than going to this place again, it's an utterly meaningless place without any sign of personality.
Young hipsters being bored
9. Bar Royal, Cartago
Not the classiest place in town, but no doubt the most famous
10. The Unknown Soldier:
Somewhere in San José, possibly Kerri's.
Unknown soldier
11. End of the Night: San José - Heredia Bus Station
Surprisingly clean at 7 a.m.
Panoramic view of this impressive fusion between avantguard architecture and modern technology.
Bar Royal, about 1 km north of the mercado central, is better known as La Tencha, or donde Tencha, and is a mandatory stop on every tour to Cartago. Not because it's a particularly nice place - it's actually a brothel, and a very unexclusive one - but it's an institution and a part of the collective identity since about 1502. And it's basically the only place open in Cartago after midnight.
10. The Unknown Soldier:
Somewhere in San José, possibly Kerri's.
Memories fade away. That is not less true after a night of continuous drinking, but this picture could be from a place called Kerri's bar, behind the more notorious choice for those who are out late, namely the night club la Pantera Rosa. However, since the IWCRP does not associate or identify with anything pink, we chose the place with the cheap beer.
Unknown soldier
11. End of the Night: San José - Heredia Bus Station
Surprisingly clean at 7 a.m.
Panoramic view of this impressive fusion between avantguard architecture and modern technology.
"Aproveche", the imperative of the verb "aprovechar", which according to my dictionary means to make the most of an opportunity, or to make progress, to become useful.
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